Petrolatum - Friend or Foe?

Just before our Christmas vacation to the wonderful snowy land that is Michigan, I dug out my heavy winter coat (which had been in a box for two years, thank you Florida). Before sending it to be dry cleaned, I looked inside the pockets and to my surprise there were two items, a $20 bill (I love finding money that I have forgotten about) and a tube of Vaseline Lip Therapy lip balm. I recall buying the lib balm at a gas station out of desperation on our moving trip down to FL. Living in Michigan for me meant having to deal with dry chapped lips for almost all of winter. I used to buy Burt's Bees lip balm but that is not always an option, so I settled for this balm, which claimed to "protect dry, chapped lips" with it's "advanced formula".

I probably didn't even read the ingredient list. As a scientist, when I read "Advanced Formula" I have certain expectations. These expectations are almost never met outside the laboratory so I have learned to lower my expectations as a normal civilian. Still, I was shocked to read the ingredient list. "Active Ingredient: White petrolatum USP (100%)". So this "advanced" formula contains ONE chemical: Petrolatum! I thought to myself: WHAT THE WHAT? how is the company even allowed to make such claims? Petrolatum is KNOWN to cause further drying and damage to the skin! Even more importantly, how could I, an educated person who cares about my health, ever purchase this item???? I almost threw it away in shame but after telling the story to a couple of friends, I decided I should use it to help clear up some misinformation about this mystery substance petrolatum.

Here I will give you only the facts, in bullet points, because frankly you don't have all day!

What is it?

• Petrolatum is also known as white petrolatum, petroleum Jelly or soft paraffin.
• As the name suggests, it is a petrochemical (derived from oil).
  
• It was discovered in a US oil rig and refined by Robert Chesebrough, a chemist who later founded the Vaseline company.
• Its molecular structure is a non-polar hydrocarbon, which renders it very hydrophobic (water repelling).
  

The Good:

• Because of its hydrophobic nature, petrolatum does not get absorbed but forms a layer of film (a barrier) on the skin and does not allow most things to pass through.
• This barrier is exactly why the FDA has approved petrolatum as a "skin protectant." Placing petrolatum on a cut can prevent bacteria and dirt from penetrating the wound and decreased the chance of infection (much like a band aid).
• This barrier can also keep skin hydrated by preventing evaporation of the skin's natural moisture.
• Petrolatum is also very stable (although it is flammable) and easy to integrate into skin care formulas.
• It is CHEAP and profitable! The 10g tube of lip balm (100% petrolatum) sells for $2 while I can buy it in bulk for $6/kg, which means only 6 cents for the 10g tube.
  

The Bad:

• The barrier formed on the skin by petrolatum can be a double edged sword. If it can prevent evaporation of moisture from the skin, it also prevents absorption of moisture. If it can keep bacteria out, it can also trap bacteria in, etc.
  
• The barrier blocks your pores and prevents proper detoxification.
• The barrier prevents absorption of essential nutrients, vitamins and anti-oxidants by the skin, leading to under-nourished and unhealthy skin. This is why long-term use of petrochemicals can actually cause breakouts and leads to dry, cracked and damaged skin.
  
• It is simply a barrier, it does nothing to nourish or promote the health of your skin.
  

The Ugly:

• Petrolatum has been proposed by various studies to be a carcinogen (cancer causing agent). As a scientist, I can tell you that just about EVERYTHING has been shown by a couple of studies to be a carcinogen! I am not defending petrolatum, but there is just not enough evidence to label it as a known carcinogen (though it wouldn't be the least bit surprising that rubbing petroleum-based compounds all over one's body would be hazardous!)
• There is no general consensus on just HOW bad petrolatum is for you. For example, it has been banned for use in cosmetics in the European Union but the environmental working group gives petrolatum a non-toxic score of 2 (scale of 0-10, 10 being most toxic).
  
• A more concerning fact to me is that petrolatum is often contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) which are KNOWN carcinogens (not much debate on this one, pretty much everyone agrees!). Sadly, the FDA has no rules regarding the purity of petrolatum so you never know if you are putting PAHs on your body or not!

Why care about petrolatum?

• One of every 14 skin care products on the market contains petrolatum. So you probably DO use it, unless you carefully filter.
• Surprisingly, 40 percent of all baby lotions and oils use petrolatum so if you have kids, pay attention!
• Luckily, FDA restricts petrolatum in food to no more than 10 parts per million (0.001%) so at least you don't have to worry about it in food items (although you DO ingest lip balm).
  

The Verdict:

• Don't use it! Petrolatum is NOT your friend! Do you know how many healthy alternatives there are to petrochemicals? Just about any natural oil or wax will have the benefits of petrolatum (and much much more) without the harm. I just can not think of any good reason people choose petroleum-based skin care. Probably the same reason I bought the Vaseline lip balm: no time to think about it and it claims to protect with its advanced formula. Well, now you know. So next time you're at the store and grab a lotion or lip balm and see "petrolatum" in the ingredient list, just put it back down and reach for something else.
  

These reasons are why you will NEVER find petrochemicals in any hydrOtion products. Instead, we use the most skin-compatible natural oils and butters that deliver nutrients while they soften your skin and lips.


--Dr. B of hydrOtion

Natural Solutions for Itchy, Scaly, Psoriasis

An estimated 7 million Americans suffer from psoriasis, one of the most embarrassing and difficult to treat skin conditions. It is a chronic condition that can appear and disappear randomly, appearing as red, itchy, scaly patches of skin, known as plaques. These plaques are most often found on the scalp, elbows, knees, and knuckles. Psoriasis is caused by a quickening in the time it takes for the skin cell regeneration process. Usually, it takes about a month for your body to create new skin cells and slough off the old, dead skin cells, allowing for continuous regeneration of skin. For people with psoriasis, this process can be reduced to 3 or 4 days, resulting in a build up of dry, dead skin cells on the surface, creating plaques. The overall cause of psoriasis is still unknown, making it difficult to create very effective and targeted treatments. But, there are a lot of treatments out there, both prescription and natural, which have been shown to help relieve, reduce, or even temporarily cure the effects of psoriasis.

There are a variety of prescription and over-the-counter treatments that can help. There are several biologic and systemic prescription medications being FDA approved lately. Although they have shown to be effective, most are administered through regular injections, have severe side effect risks, and require regular check-ups and tests. They also tend to only work for a limited time frame (1-3 years) and result in severe psoriasis outbreaks after ending the medication. It’s no wonder many people search out easier and safer treatment options.

The most common treatments are salicylic acid and steroid based topical creams and ointments. While these can be effective with minimal risk of side effects, they can sometimes be harsh on your skin and many people have an aversion to regular steroid based medications. Another common treatment is coal tar, which can be found in shampoos and creams. Unfortunately, coal tar treatments are messy, have a horrible smell, and can easily stain fabrics. These also can increase sensitivity to sunlight and have been shown to lose effectiveness over time, leaving those suffering to search for other options.

Luckily, there are several natural treatments that have shown to help relieve the effects of psoriasis. Although many of these also can lose effectiveness over time and each treatment may not work for everyone, there is a wide range of healthy treatments to choose from.

The most effective treatment, natural or otherwise, is sunlight. The ultraviolet (UV) sunlight helps to reduce skin inflammation and slow down the skin cell process. Studies have shown that 60% of psoriasis sufferers have found significant improvement or even complete clearing of psoriasis through limited, daily exposure to sunlight. The downside, of course, is that sunlight also has negative effects on skin, increasing the risk of cancer and premature aging of skin. This makes it very important to use this treatment method carefully by limiting your daily exposure to short periods of time. As an alternative to natural sunlight, many dermatologists have turned to the use of UVB emitting lamps and lasers for treatment, creating a more controlled exposure to the UVB rays, while eliminating the more harmful UVA rays. This has shown to be a very effective and safe treatment, with most people finding complete relief of plaques after 10 treatments. But, this treatment can be costly and some insurance plans may not cover the costs.

There are also a variety of safe, effective, budget friendly, natural treatments that can be found around the average house. One of the most effective at-home treatments is sea salt, by taking regular sea-water baths or applying sea-water to affected areas on a daily basis. It is often recommended to follow up sea salt treatments by applying olive oil to the affected areas. Other recommended involve applying compresses onto the plaques made from warm, de-veined cabbage leaves, fresh banana leaves, warm green tea bags, jasmine flower paste, or apple cider vinegar. These will help moisturize the skin, reduce inflammation, and help loosen and remove plaques. Using mild soaps and applying a daily, unscented moisturizer is also an important part of treatment. Also, regular application of aloe, vitamin D, oat extracts, and tea tree oil, either directly or included in a daily lotion, can also be helpful.

These are just a few of the many treatments that have been helpful to people suffering from psoriasis, but no treatment has shown to be reliable for every person and there are no miracle cure for this condition. But, there are many options out there to test and find which treatment works best for your situation. The important aspect of any psoriasis treatment should include an approach toward overall healthy and hydrated skin. In addition to the topical treatments, it is also important to incorporate exercise and a healthy diet, including one rich in omega fatty acids, as many have found that a general healthy lifestyle can also help relieve the effects of psoriasis. So, while psoriasis can be a difficult skin disorder, a healthy lifestyle, maintaining skin moisture, and use of some natural treatments can help reduce outbreaks and make this condition a lot more manageable.

-- The hydrOtion team